Introduction
Needle plays an important role in determining the appearance and performance of the final seam. Several things can determine the type of needle to pick, the material you are using; the thread you have chosen or the type of stitch you plan. When you are doing regular, not decorative, sewing, the type of material determines the shape of the needle's point, and the material thickness determines the needles' size. But before deciding on a needle, you first need to know the needle system your machine uses Needles are available in different length and thickness to suit the requirement of various machines. Needle size is normally marked on its shank. Needle for hand stitching are also available in various curve shapes to suit the requirement of stitching.
Needle Parts and Functions
A. Butt: It is top most part of the needle. It facilitates easy entry of needle in to the needle bar and provides firm sitting in to the needle bar cavity.
B. Shank: This part of needle is inserted in to the needle bar and provides a firm seating for the needle in the needle bar for stability during stitching. It also provides space for tightening of needle screw on it for proper fixing of needle in to the required place. The shank diameter varies according to the needle system.
C. Blade: It is the longest part of the needle between the shank and eye of the needle. The shape and diameter of the needle determines the penetration strength and size of the perforation in the material. In reinforced needles, blades tapers gradually from shank to blade and this tapered area is called Shoulder. This tapering gives more strength to the needle and reduces vibration at high speed. It also reduces friction between the needle blade and material,thus reducing needle heat.
D. Long Groove: It is situated on the threading side (apposite of clearance cut) along the blade of the needle. The Function of the long groove is to hold the thread along the blade when the needle pierces into the material, so that friction is reduced and thread is not caught between the needle blade and the material when it passes through.
E.Clearance cut: It is a flat cut in the blade of the needle above the eye on the thread exit side.
- When needle insertion is done, the clearance cut should always face the hook.
- The clearance cut helps in better stitch formation as hook point could come closer to the needle to pick up the top thread loop. It also reduces the chances of damage to needle or hook point.
F. Needle eye: It is a hole at the end of the needle. It is elongated in shape to help the diagonal movement of the thread. Since the thread has to pass through the needle eye 25 to 30 times before it forms a stitch, so it is very necessary that needle eye should be highly polished to make it smooth. Needle type and size determines the size and shape of eye.
G. Head Groove: It is a passage between the eye and point of the needle. This groove protects the top thread from undue friction when the needle eye and the point rise out of the material. This groove is sometimes twisted either to left or to right in order to ease the stress on the thread during sewing according to direction pulls.
H. Needle Point: It is tapered at the end, just above the needle tip so needle can easily penetrate in to the material.
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